Showing posts with label Making. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Making. Show all posts

Thursday, June 2, 2011

Making Homemade Goat's Milk and Honey Soap

I learned to make homemade soap from my grandmother who is now 97-years-old. Way back when I was a young girl this was a monthly process I helped with.

Grandma would ask her friends from church, the quilting bee and Elks Lodge to save all their grease drippings for her to make soap with.

Cold Pressed Coconut Oil

On soap making day, she would bring out the enamel tubs, the coffee cans of grease drippings and her soap making utensils that consisted of cheese cloth, wooden spoons, measuring cups, and a scale and hand mixer.

Making Homemade Goat's Milk and Honey Soap

Grandma would heat the grease drippings each can at a time and when melted strain through the cheese cloth several times until the grease was as clear and pure as water. Of course being grease it had a golden tint to it, but you could see to the bottom of the tub. When she had heated and strained all the grease she set the tubs aside and mixed her lye water.

Oh the fumes of the lye water would make you cough until the lye was dissolved completely and set aside to cool. Lye water can get up to 200 degrees when first mixed, which makes it a chemical to respect. You can burn your skin if you are not careful, but just little drops can be washed off with cold water without leaving any lasting burn.

When the lye water and oils cooled to about the same temperatures, she would very slowly mix the two together in her enamel tub. She's stir and stir until she knew the two were mixed real well and then she would get her hand mixer and start mixing on the slowest speed possible. She would turn off the mixer and let the soap rest and her arm too, then turn it back on to continue mixing.

Meanwhile I laid the molds out (small butter tubs) in rows to be ready when the soap had reached the right consistency, which was like thin pudding. The term is called tracing. To me it was pure fun and sometimes grandma would add little amounts of Lavender oil to the soap to make it smell nice.

When the soap traced grandma would pour soap into the molds and it was my responsibility to make sure they did not tip over while she was filling them. After the soap set for a couple days in the molds, I'd pop them out and into a large trash bag to cure. Soap has to cure approximately two to three weeks before you can use it. Another word for curing is saphonation, the process of the oils and lye water turning into soap.

Grandma would make soap throughout the year, but every six months or so she and grandpa would load up the soap and other items they had collected and take them to the Indian reservations in Arizona to hand out to the Indians with the other Elks Lodge members.

Five years ago, I started the tradition of making homemade soap, but I have expanded to several types of soap and where grandma used grease drippings such as lard or tallow, I use vegetable oils of several types.

My favorite soap to make is goat's milk and honey. Thank goodness for the Internet, so many recipes and directions to choose from. The first try at making goat's milk and honey soap was mixing the goat's milk and lye together as grandma used to mix water and lye together. It bubbled up and turned a pumpkin colored orange. I thought "Oh, my goodness, this is going to explode", and backed up a few steps. But it finally settled down. The one thing I didn't like about mixing the lye and milk was that the milk curdled.

The recipe said it would because the lye made the goat's milk heat up to just less than 200 degrees. While the milk and lye was cooling down I began to get my oils together. Again grandma used the grease that her friends had given her; I was using a combination of oils purchased from a supplier of vegetable oils.

I have an old scale that was used in a market to weigh my ingredients on and since I weigh my ingredients in pounds this scale works for me. I put my big stainless steel stock pot onto the scale and measured the palm oil, then added the olive oil, rice bran oil and last the coconut oil. It takes quite a bit of oil to make a batch of soap, and I was making a 30 bar batch so that was roughly 6 lbs of oil.

Why the different kinds of oils? Well each oil has different qualities, which mixed together make a very moisturizing bar of soap. Palm oil is usually a solid oil and gives texture to the bar along with a mild lather; rice bran is similar to olive oil, very moisturizing and thick, but less expensive; olive oil for the reason already mentioned and coconut oil, which creates loads of lather. Coconut oil by itself can be very drying to the skin, so it needs to be combined with other oils. I also use Shea and mango butters, jojoba and sweet almond oils in some of my soaps.

When the lye/milk and oils cooled to around 110 I then very slowly poured the lye/milk into the oils while stirring. After the two had been mixed real well I poured the mixture into my stand mixer and turned it on to "stir", which provided the right speed and saved my arm from falling off. I also added about 2 tablespoons of honey while the mixer was stirring. After a couple minutes I started adding the fragrance or essence oils a little at a time until the correct amount had been added, usually about 4 ounces. When the mixture "traced" I then poured it into my prepared mold.

My husband makes the molds from wood and I line them with wax paper before pouring the soap mixture into them. The soap in the mold sets for approximately 24 hours and then can be turned out and cut into bars by my soap cutter that my husband also made for me. Any soap that has milk in it should cure from 3 to 4 weeks before using.

After it is cured the soap goes into the correct storage container.

After making goat's milk and honey by this recipe and having some problems such as the soap forming honeycomb like places throughout or the oils were separating in puddles on top of the soap, I started using another method of making it. I now place the goat's milk into the freezer to get "slushy" and then add my lye to about 1 pound of water to dissolve and adding the goat's milk to the mixture after I have mixed the lye/water and oils. Since I changed the method of making my goat's milk soap I have not had any batches that I have had to "rebatch".

Rebatch simply means cutting or grating up the soap, mixing with a small amount of liquid and melting down to a thick liquid form. I use a Crock pot for this. I then pour the melted soap back into the molds and let it sit until hardened. Since the mixture has been heated enough to melt, it has already completed the "curing" stage and can be used within a couple days instead of waiting 3-4 weeks. This can be compared to hot press soap instead of cold press soap, which I normally make.

I hope you like this article and have learned a little about making goat's milk soap.

Making Homemade Goat's Milk and Honey SoapRazy Gogonea - Britain's Got Talent 2011 Audition - itv.com/talent Tube. Duration : 4.85 Mins.


Britain's Got Talent: 28-year-old dancer Razy, originally from Romania, is trying out for Britain's Got Talent with quite a unique act, taking queues from the film The Matrix. With breakdancers being notorious on this show - from Tobias Mead and Aiden Davis to winner George Sampson - has Razy got something special that makes him different? See more at itv.com

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Sunday, May 15, 2011

Making Cold Process Soap

What is soap? Soap is a substance that's used for cleansing and it is made when a chemical reaction occurs between lye (Sodium Hydroxide) and fat.

Soap got its name when the Romans at 'Mount Sapo', a popular location for animal sacrifices, discovered it. Rain mixed the animal fat residue (tallow from cattle) with the burned wood on clay and a chemical reaction occurred. Women living on the banks of the Tiber river discovered that clothes which they washed using this substance were much cleaner and cleaned with much less effort.

Cold Pressed Coconut Oil

When making soap, there are some substances that are necessary for this process. Let's take a look at them.

Making Cold Process Soap

Fats - fats are oils from animals or vegetables. Animal fats are fats from beef tallow (of course this is less animal friendly and less commonly used these days). Vegetable oils that are most commonly used for soap making are olive, coconut, cocoa, and palm oils.

Lye - (Sodium Hydroxide) or another common name, caustic soda. Lye needs to be dissolved in water in order to actively react with.

Water - The best water to use for soap making is distilled water. Hard water contains minerals and salts that may interfere with this chemical reaction. It is always recommended to follow a given recipe and measure the water and the lye. Not having enough water may result in hard, dry soap, and too much water may yield too soft of a soap.

Essential oils and herbs - essential oils add fragrance to soap. In some cases skin-sensitive people use soap with no fragrance. When herbs are added to soap they add color, change the texture and contribute their qualities for relaxing and healing skin. Some herbs work as exfoliates.

Tools - Stainless steel pot (never aluminum!), 2 wooden spoons, wide mouthed glass jar (at least 2 quarts), thermometer that reads between 80'F - 110'F, shoe box or cardboard box about this size, plastic wrap, safety glasses, and rubber gloves. Avoid using these tools for eating; dedicate them only for soap making. Also clean them separately from your kitchen utensils.

First step - Making the lye solution
This step requires the most precaution. Wearing safety glasses and rubber gloves is a must. To prevent inhaling the lye fumes, it is best to do this outdoors. Start by adding lye gently to distilled cold water while stirring carefully. You shoul not use hot water to begin with, since lye heats up on it's own in reaction to contact with the cold water and it's undesirable for this solution to boil. Also, do not do the opposite of adding water to lye as this may cause explosion. If you see a thin layer of white crust at the bottom of the jar, keep stirring gently until all the lye is dissolved in the water.

Second Step - Melting the Fats
Melt the oils (fats) in a stainless steel pot and only when melted, begin adding olive oil while stirring well.

Third Step - Mixing the Lye Solution with the Fats
Using the safety glasses and rubber gloves, measure the temperature of lye solution and that of the oils. If the oils' temperature is high, you can immerse this pot into a sink of cool water to slightly cool the temperature. Some soap makers suggest that the temperature of both substances should be between 100'F - 110'F. We recommend measuring between 95'F - 98'F. When both substances reach the same temperature, slowly pour the lye solution into the oils. Patiently stir until the substances are fully mixed (This may take some time. Patience is critical at this stage).

Fourth Step - Adding Fragrances, colorants and Herbs
This is when fragrances, colorants or herbs are added to the mixture. Simply follow the amounts in you recipe. There's no exact amount of time for how long to stir, it can vary from five to forty minutes. Stir until you see 'trace'. Trace means when you pick up the spoon and are able to draw on the surface by dripping from the spoon. A successful trace should enable you to see the drops for few seconds before they disappear back into the mixture. The mixture should be as thick as pudding.

Fifth Step - Saponification
Pour the mixture into a plastic wrap lined box or a shoebox. Cover the box with its lid and then cover the lid with a blanket. It is very important to not disturb the mixture until saponification is done. At this stage the substance is turns from a mixture into solid soap. It has to sit for 18-48 hours while it releases heat.

Sixth Step - Remodeling the Soap
After saponification, remove the lid and the blanket, and set it aside for another 12 hours. The fresh and fragrant soap is now ready to be removed from the mold. If you see a thin layer of oil and a white crust that looks like chalk, it indicates that you succeeded in making a good batch. If you see a layer, which is grossly separated, wrap it and throw it away as this batch has failed. Using rubber gloves, cut the soap into bars, or shape it like clay. You can also mold it with cookie cutters or stamp it. Set the soap aside again to cure for two to three weeks. The soap is ready to use then.

Making Cold Process SoapDanny MacAskill - "Way Back Home" Tube. Duration : 7.72 Mins.


Way Back Home is the incredible new riding clip from Danny MacAskill, it follows him on a journey from Edinburgh back to his hometown Dunvegan, in the Isle of Skye. You can read about it and watch the interviews with Danny at www.redbull.co.uk The music is Loch Lomond "Wax and Wire" and The Jezabels "A Little Piece". www.myspace.com | www.thejezabels.com

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